Pakistan. Islamabad. Ghar. Truly. A pound now converts to 350 rupees approximately so definitely a great spot for vacationing for us non residents but if you’re frequenting the likes of Kohsar, Jinnah and F-6 you may still end up spending 1000 rupees on a coffee and perhaps something like 3k if a fancy pastry is included.

We have always had amazing bakeries but the notch has been turned up with spots like Loafology where you pay thousands for a fancy salad, barista made coffee and a spot of dessert. Everyone is talking about Loafology. The times it came up in my circle of friends and family was ridiculous. Ironically it is also run by a family of ex-diplomats whom my parents know, so ultimately circles in Pakistan are still tight. As much as I am impressed with Islamabad’s progression from a city of beaurucrats who went to bed at 9 pm to a city run with limitless restaurants shutting at 2 am and staying open till sehri – this is not a concept we grew up with or could even dream of.

Places charging extortionate prices that any middle class citizen and below cannot even dream of frequenting makes me wonder on how bad the disconnect is between our elite and the ground reality of a country that was just bailed out by the IMF. At the same time, do I have the right to judge or complain as I haven’t lived in Pakistan since 2008? Yes and no. I shouldn’t be too harsh but as someone who has lived in and experienced a much more grounded version of Islamabad, I have the right to compare and contrast on what we’ve lost and whether our infrastructure has actually progressed or not. Do we need that many lawn shops?

So, coming to the nostalgic parts, Islamabad has not and will never lose it’s beauty. The city is so stunning and green, I will never stop regretting how little of this I appreciated when I lived here. On top our bakeries are amazing. Our bakeries are heaven. You can’t live off them, but treats from Pakistani bakeries are what makes the trips to the fridge and coffee breaks exciting. It was heartwarming to see friends and family still frequenting Kitchen Cuisine because nothing will beat them and the experience. United Bakery is still very much there, and has not progressed interiors wise but one can never not walk in there and have a rush of memories of how this once used to be the highlight of everyone’s evenings. People are out till late now in Islamabad, enjoying the weather, socialising and enjoying what the city now has to offer. There is life now in Islamabad that we never had before so if you can afford it, and the population has grown, the place is busy round the clock. 

Islamabad grounds me in a way no other place ever will. I wasn’t born here and neither have I spent a grand amount of time here – just 8 years of my life. But those 8 years were the most resilient and life changing. Islamabad taught me to dream, take life for what it is and not complain because those less fortunate around you humble you and taught me that childhood friends are valuable. A specific friend, whom I won’t name, I have known since I was 9 is a connection that will never die and these things matter. We grew up together not knowing eachother’s financial statuses, but just the fact that we were classmates and only wanted the best for eachother. There were no pretenses growing up in Beaconhouse. If I had kids (and I doubt I will ever be able to send them to Beaconhouse) but I wish I could but things have probably changed a lot. 

So I wrote this whilst I sat in a priveleged VIP lounge of Islamabad about to fly out back to London. I am sitting next to ‘some foreign office kids’ just like myself and we happen to know some common names. I ask them how things are and they claim simultaneously: They live behind Kohsar Market and everything is absolutely fine in Pakistan. Precisely my point.